1974 Porsche 914 For Sale $6,800 obo in Washington, DC area

 

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September 2010

 

Why:

 I've had the car for more than 10 years. I have new toy and can only have one space in the garage.

 

Quick specs:

Located in a western suburb of Washington, DC

1974

1.8

Light Ivory Porsche paint color (originally red)

Not sure if those wheels were stock. They are 15” (I think)

The tires have a lot of life left, they still have bobbles on them.

Odometer says 37K but it stopped working shortly after Ibought the car. I put on about 5000 miles on it and looks to be a low mileage car.

I updated the seats with a nylon black/white checkerboard pattern. I have original seats.

The radio is updated with a CD player but I have the original.

Pictures show the upgraded Momo steering wheel (I’m keeping it) but car will be sold with OEM steering wheel. It is back on the car now.

Updated shift knob but I have the original, it could be used but it is in poor condition and should be refurbished

There is an alarm that works but I don’t know if it’s really hooked up to anything.

Everything else pretty much original.

I also have steel fender flares new in boxes but they would add to the price. I think I originally paid $900 for the flares.


What:

It's a 1974 1.8 liter engine with a single carb. It was on the car when I bought it. When I bought the car about (2005ish) from a guy in northern NJ he said that he got it from a dealership near Atlanta where the car was originally purchased new and they serviced it for the first owner for several years. I think the second owner (the guy from NJ) bought it in the late 1990s or early 2000s. This is all hearsay.

 

Having been the owner for a while and done the maintenance myself with the help of friends, here’s what I can tell from the car. It was at one time red. The previous owner claimed the original owner was getting too much attention with a red car and had it painted white. This is again hearsay. I can tell that the car had something happen in the passenger front fender area of the car. There is body work there along with the typical rust repair under the battery tray. I give the body work a 95 out of 100 as well as the paint work. The coverage is well done and the paint is glossy. You’ll see my reflection when taking some of the pictures and there’s something to be said for that on a white car. Keep in mind I’m an engineer by trade and a perfectionist telling you this. The previous owner advertised this car as having “no rust”. There is no more rust on the car than when I bought it. There are some small pockets of surface rust in some hard to reach/see places that have always been there. I have seen many other 914s at events and this is definitely in the 98th percentile for having no rust. It loves this weather. The carb is tuned to “like it” between about 75 and 92 degrees so it really likes the spring and fall. It’s registered like a normal car so I can drive it whenever I want. I’ve taken it on several 100 mile+ trips to southern Virginia and up into Maryland and it does great. It can cruise at 80 or 90 miles an hour with no weird vibrations or shimmies. It’s very stable, solid, and smooth with that “go-kart” feel. The rubber seals are in good condition and many have been replaced. I have been caught in the rain a few times and the targa top and trunks don’t leak.

 

As a person who has sold a few cars out of their driveway I’d rather just disclose everything than have you come here and see something that was a surprise. I generally try to make things sound worse than they are so when you come here to look you’re pleasantly surprised.

 

The following pics taken September 2010 in the middle of my court (It looks the same today.):

(those oil marks in the road are not from this car)

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The top is in good condition and would look better had I polished it before taking pictures.

 

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I should have vacuumed before taking pictures. The car interior shows better than this. There are two cracks in the dashboard that are not wide open and not really apparent unless you look closely. One is above the ash tray and one is above the gage cluster cover.

 

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The rust under the battery tray is just surface rust. It is solid.

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I entered the car in the Deutsche Marque Classic car show in 2008 just to park in the corral. It’s a big show for German makes in the mid-Atlantic region sponsored by the local German car clubs and is held at Nottoway Park in Vienna, VA. I didn’t enter the Concours competition but was pleasantly surprised to win a People’s Choice Award.

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There are three or four cosmetic things I want you to see. These are the only things worst things (in my opinion) with the appearance.

When we were working on the engine (shown below) we were pushing the car around in my buddy’s shop and we scraped it against an engine hoist. This scratch is about 4 inches long and pretty deep. It is the worst looking thing on the car.

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There is a star scratch probably made from something too big to fit in the rear trunk. You don’t see this unless someone points it out to you.

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Going around the DC beltway, a small stone flew up and impacted the driver headlight eye-lid (when the headlights were down).

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The passenger door has never hung right. It does work but the gap is not uniform. It’s tight at the top. Tight enough to be metal on metal and wear away a small amount of paint. It has always been like this and never changes, doesn’t get any worse. I drive it around. The outer long looks solid and you can see the metal plate welded into place in the pictures below.

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View of “the longs”

The first two are of the passenger side. You can see where there is steel riveted and welded into the longs here from the rust repair done for under the battery tray. The jack point is bent up. It’s solid; I don’t know why they didn’t put it down. The driver long looks beautiful.

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Pulling the engine and sealing all the leaks with new seals:

In August 2008 my friend helped me pull the engine to fix some leaks and give it a tune up and it quickly became an exercise of “while I’m in here”.

 

Before we started

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You can see from this picture where I had previously replaced all the shift bushings including firewall. Shifting on this car is as tight as it gets with the preferred side shift transmission.

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Here’s the dirty, oily exhaust tin. This was sprayed with some oil dissolving stuff (like oil eater) along with all balance of the engine and the exhaust tin. After letting that sit I sprayed it again and scrubbed all the pieces with a bristle brush at one of those spray it yourself car washes. I then pressure sprayed off all the tin and let it air dry. Needless to say that bristle brush had to be thrown out after that. You can see here I had a loose exhaust gasket which was allowing outside air to enter the exhaust at the head (the bright white one). All new exhaust gaskets where used on both sides and some new exhaust header bolts were purchased where needed.

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Engine out of the car. A little better view of the area below the battery tray.

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This is when we first got the engine out.

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New Clutch just because we were in there.

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This reman flywheel came with the clutch kit but we did not use it because my flywheel was 100% better.

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New front and rear engine seal.

Look at what someone did here. They put little “bulges” around the seal to try and hold it in. We made this uniform again before installing the new seal.

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Of course new plugs, points, distrib. Cap, rotor. Any oil or fluid seal you can think of including speedo cable and shift rod seals for transmission. Changed trans fluid. Oil cooler AND oil filter gaskets. Valve seals too!

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Final scrub down before going back in. New fan belt too.

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Going back in, engine first and then transmission.

 

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Here’s one more just because it’s cool. We broke the clutch cable retainer which is vinyl from the factory. My friend fabricated one on the spot made out of brass so you never have to worry about the vinyl one breaking.

 

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After replacing all those seals and gaskets the underside of the car stays pretty clean and it doesn't leave oil spots. Everything was covered with oil all the time before the work shown above. I haven't driven the car 3000 miles since that work was completed.

 

What's the bad about this car?

 

I've always hated the single carb setup. Depending on the ambient temperature and humidity the car performs differently. I have just rebuilt the carb and although it's better it's just not optimal. The choke is held open so you have to let it warm up before driving. Were I keeping the car I would switch to dual carb and intake setup. ***Disclaimer*** I'm no carb expert. There's probably more tuning that could be done to make this better. This doesn't stop me from driving it. I drive it to work ocasionally and I drove it about 200 miles one day back in November on a trip from the Washington DC area to Richmond VA and back again. No problems.

 

The passenger longitudinal needs repair. The outer long was fixed previously. You can see that in the pictures above. The inner long needs some TLC. Other than that the car is solid and I drive it.

 

I see many 914s on the market for over 10K. This is one you can buy for a song, drive it this summer, and work on it slowly over time.  

 

Thanks for looking, Jason

 

jason@greatjason.com

 

When the car is sold I will remove this webpage. Enjoy the videos of the car driving below.